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BILL'S GALLERY : Burma (1996, 2002)


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In November-December I made my second trip to Burma. The current government recognizes the importance of tourism: In 2002 it is estimated that there were 12,000 Americans, in spite of our State Department, and about 200,000 other foreign visitors. I noticed some significant changes; the quality of hotels was greatly increased, to even include a couple of nice resorts. and I saw only western toilets.
The major focus in Yangon, the capital, was the Shwedagon Pagoda founded some 2500 years ago, covered in gold leaf, with a 325 foot tall stupa. Then it was on to the ancient city of Pagan on the muddy Irrawaddy River. Built some 1,000 years ago Pagan is overrun with 2200 Buddhist temples, domed pagodas, and gilt spires creating a surreal landscape. There is also the greatest concentration of Buddhist wall painting in Southeast Asia. As a result of increased interest in tourism there is a hurried and sloppy restoration program underway in Pagan, but without any professional assistance. So now there are temples with bright new red bricks and thick mortar, even the names of financial donors in red paint on the walls over ancient paintings. It’s rather evident that unless a more responsible restoration program is initiated the lure of Pagan will be destroyed. I spent one afternoon walking the busy streets of Yangon. There are hundreds of small shops selling almost anything and everything one could possibly want. Burma has an abundant supply of oil and natural gas. It is the second largest producer of rice. About the only material thing missing is information technology. The government controls the Internet and telephone systems. I was told that there will be changes within five years and students will likely be the agents of change.
 


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